Product Description
Since 1997 - Waterproofing solutions are not always simple but with a little know-how and the right advice permanent fixes can be accomplished relatively easy and inexpensive. For over 15 years, RadonSeal® has been dedicated to offering homeowners and contractors unbiased expertise, unparalleled service and our professional-quality, ready to use, concrete sealers, brick sealers, and concrete repair products.RadonSeal® Plus Concrete Sealer is formulated to seal more porous concrete like; poured concrete >20 years old, concrete blocks, and porous cinder blocks.Depending on porosity, RadonSeal® Plus is able to penetrate 4" into concrete, where it chemically reacts, seals, and strengthens concrete internally. Treated surfaces are permanently sealed against water seepage, water vapor, and even radon gas.Stops efflorescence, concrete dusting and prevents mold growth and staining.RadonSeal® seals, strengthens, and densifies, concrete floors and walls, indoors or outdoors. Ideal for basements where humidity and/or water seepage is a concern.Use on concrete slabs, garage floors, foundation walls, parking structures, and warehouse and factory floors. Prevents concrete pitting and spalling due to freeze-thaw, road salts, and chemicals.Safe and easy spray-on application for homeowners or contractors. Approx. coverage per 5 gallon pail: Poured Concrete - 1000 sq. ft., Concrete Block - 500 sq. ft., Cinder Block - 400 sq. ft.We know from experience that sealing concrete is not always cut-and-dry. If you have questions about your particular concrete or project please contact a RadonSeal® service technician at 1-800-472-0603.
Product Details
- Amazon Sales Rank: #75813 in Home Improvement
- Color: Clear
- Brand: RadonSeal®
- Model: 110
Features
- MONEY BACK GUARANTEE
- USER-FRIENDLY - Non-toxic, non-flammable, zero VOC's.
- EASY TO APPLY - Spray, roll, or brush.
- PERMANENT - No reapplication needed.
- PENETRATES - Does not leave a coating. Works by absorbing and reacting inside concrete.
- Seals Concrete against Water Seepage, Vapor Transmission, and even Radon Gas
- No messy mixing, no sticky residue left behind, RadonSeal® is ready to apply upon delivery.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
16 of 18 people found the following review helpful.
Radon Seal
By lona sanders
It did not do what the literature etc on their web page said it would do. It was applied foloowing the instructions to the letter, but we still have mold growing back and moisture. I was very dissapointed and called the company & they said there is nothing they can do. However, they also state on their site that it has a lifetime gaurantee, but yet they say there is nothing they can do if it didn't work. Very unhappy camper :-(
12 of 13 people found the following review helpful.
didnt solve radon
By kara thompson
Have an investment property in Iowa ( a high radon state). Buyers had radon tested prior to sale - tested high at 11.4. Sealed basement twice per instructions. Retested after application had few days to dry. Retest reading still high at 10.5.
14 of 18 people found the following review helpful.
Radon Seal Plus
By Louise, Baltimore, MD
Radon Seal Plus
To test for "Open pores" in cement. Put a drop of water on the floor. If it flattens out and you can still see the drop of water, your concrete is not porous. If it absorbs into the concrete like water absorbs into a sponge, you have "opened the pores". This test is especially important to do on OLD concrete, because it develops a "top coat" of something that does not allow water to absorb into the concrete AND this "top coat" does NOT stop water vapor from coming into the basement. Read further to find out about testing for seepage or condensation.
The secret is "floor preparation is EVERYTHING":
You have two choices: grinding or acid etching. After reading the label for acid you can purchase at Home Depot (said it recommended
wearing a RUBBER APRON to protect yourself), I chose grinding. As awful a job as it is, it seemed safer to me - especially since I could get a variety of breathing protection equipment or masks.
How to grind your floor. Although it is a VERY DUSTY job, it is necessary. (see Utub video to see the dust the process can create - at Utub, type in the search box "sealing cement floors").
You may want to check with your local equipment rental place to see if they have a floor grinder = about the size of a buffer machine and
costs $600.00 for a full day rental. If you run into problems because you have never used the machine = the clock is ticking and you pay.\
You also pay extra if they have to replace the diamond heads --- so be sure TO CHECK to see that the heads are new.
Alternative: Go to Lowes or Home Depot and purchase the top of the line 7 "grinder ($150.00) go to Harbor Freight or on line and purchase
a diamond head grinding wheel ($50.00 each) . Even though it is not made for the grinder the grinder you just purchased, it will fit. While you are there, pick up lots of heavy duty dust masks. PLAN THAT YOU WILL WEAR OUT THIS HAND GRINDER WITH A 500 SQUARE FOOT JOB. I NEEDED TWO DIAMOND GRINDER HEADS FOR MY JOB.
BE SURE TO PLUG EVERY CRACK AND PIPE OPENING FROM THE BASEMENT TO YOUR HOUSE. CLOSE ALL WINDOWS ON THE SIDE OF THE HOUSE WHERE YOU ARE VENTING THE CELLAR AIR (I did not and ended up cleaning every room in my house). If you have forced hot air, cover the furnace, and close and cover all vents both air vents and return vents. At the door from the cellar to your house, be sure to put something under the door, so the dust does not migrate into your home. I thought I covered the furnace well, but when I took the covering off - I had to spend 5 hours cleaning the INSIDE of the furnace and removing the powdery dust from the fan blades and the microchip insides.
NOTE: YOU WILL NEED A SHOP VACUUM TO GET THE FIRST ROUND OF CLEANING ACCOMPLISHED. USING YOUR HOME VACUUM WILL BURN OUT YOUR HOME VACUUM CLEANER MOTOR. BE SURE TO FREQUENTLY CLEAN YOU SHOP VACUUM. PURCHASE EXTRA BAGS AND IF YOU CAN GET IT - GET TWO FILTERS FOR YOUR SHOP VACUUM (ONE IS SPONGE AND ONE IS A CLOTH BAG and BOTH are OVER THE MOTOR). IF YOUR SHOP VACUUM STARTS ACTING FUNNY, SPEND ABOUT 1-2 HOURS CLEANING THE VACUUM OUT THOROUGHLY.
We could only grind for 3 hours at a time = horrible job that taxes your body. So the entire job took 7 days. The clean up to remove the dust from the ceiling, walls, floor, furnace, boiler, bathroom took another 20 hours.
YOU CAN SKIP - TRYING TO REMOVE THE SURFACE OF THE CONCRETE AND THE STUFF ATTACHED TO THE SURFACE OF THE CONCRETE WITH HAND SCARPERS AND ANY STRIPPERS SOLD AT HOME DEPOT. THEY DO NOT REMOVE ENOUGH OR "OPEN THE POURS OF THE CONCRETE". YOU CAN SKIP THE HOT WATER TREATMENT RECOMMENDED BY NUMEROUS FOLKS ON THE WEB. YOU CAN SKIP RENTING A FLOOR BUFFER AND PUTTING A BAG OF SAND ON TOP - IT DOES NOT REMOVE PAINT AND IT DOES NOT DO A THOROUGH ENOUGH JOB OR "OPEN THE POURS OF THE CONCRETE. You will save yourself a lot of time and money if you either grind or acid etch.
To test for condensation or seepage on a cement wall or floor: place a piece of aluminum foil on a cement wall or floor. Tape down all sides so the air will be trapped. Wait two days. If moisture is present on the outside of the aluminum foil, it is condensation. If the moisture is on the side of the aluminum foil that faced the wall OR if the aluminum foil is discolored on the side that faced the wall, then you have seepage (water vapor coming through your wall or floor). Radon Seal treats seepage NOT condensation.
Radon Seal Plus EVALUATION
The application is the easy part of this job.
Easy to use and easy to mix and easy to apply. It absorbed into my cement floors for hours - I put on 5-6 coats and kept
brushing with a scrub brush until liquid did not absorb - Best with two people - one to apply and one to brush. That way, the
application is continuous.
OTHER PRODUCT THAT I USED AND EVALUATION.
Crackweld
I (a woman who does physical work for a living) did not have enough upper body strength to squeeze the handle EVEN the first time. It was a two hand job for me.
Very hard to get the product through the mixing nozzle. Nozzel clogged frequently. I used a sharp pointed object to open the end of the nozzle. REMEMBER when clear the nozzle with a sharp object, KEEP THE POINT OF THE CAUKING GUN FACING DOWNWARD. I could not get enough product through the nozzle to clear the mixing nozzle the way it was shown on the video at Utub.
ElastiaPoxy - Great Product
My friend and I developed a different way to mix and apply the product that worked WONDERFULLY.
If you read the directions, it says to measure exactly.
So I went to the nearest Dollar Store and bought two different sets of measuring cups and a set of
rubber spatulas. From my cupboard, I got out two clean 32 oz Yogurt containers (one container is extra).
From my recycling bin, I got out a container that had an open mouth and was tall (I cut the top off of a cat litter container)
0. Put a piece of cardboard (flattened out box) on the floor and use this as your mixing area.
1. Dump the entire contents of one can into one of the provided measuring containers; dump the other
product into the other measuring container.
2. Fill the cat litter container described above 3/4 of the way with water. Attach the mixing tool to
a drill, lean the drill against a corner wall with the tip in the water.
3. in one of the clean Yogurt containers,
a. pour one cup into a 1 cup measuring cup. You will find that you can squeeze the sides of the plastic measuring container provided in the kit to make a clean pour. Use one of the spatulas
to wipe the edge of the pouring container and to scrape ALL the material out of the measuring cup. Place the spatula on the inverted lid of the original product container to prevent any googie mess anywhere.
b. USING THE OTHER SET of measuring cups - do the exact same thing as you did above with the other product. Pour the second cup into the 32 oz yogurt container.
c. Now you have two cups (exactly ) of product in a yogurt container.
Mix the products together thoroughly with the tool attached to your drill - the color will be uniform when the mixing is done enough. Initially each product is a different color. The mixing process adds more air to the original two cups so the product expands a little more.
d. Put the drill in the "recycled cat litter" container of water and SPIN the drill head in the water for about a minute. This kept the drill head clean for the next time you mix. Lean the drill up against the wall. It will be used again and leave it in the water - so when it comes time to clean the mixing tool, it will be easy to do.
4. a. For Floors = easy application. = Depending on the size of the hole, pour or, use a plastic spoon, to get the mixed liquid into the hole(s). IF the holes are deeper than 3 inches; fill the holes WITH PLAYGROUND SAND (that is sand that is cleaned and washed) leaving 3 inches at the top of the hole for the addition of the mixed liquid. Use a dowel or chop stick to push and compact the sand into the hole. IF you put too much sand in the hole (easy to do), use a shop vac to vacuum out the sand
in the hole and start all over again, using less sand. MEASURE THE DEPTH OF EACH HOLE; eyeballing it DOES NOT WORK. To measure the depth - take a chop stick and make a mark 3 " from the end of the stick. Put the chop stick into the hole that has compacted, clean sand in the hole and make sure the mark is even with the floor. When this part of the job is done, using the plastic spoon, pour liquid into the hole. Let dry as directed. You will find when you com back two days later that there is a slight depression where you poured the liquid at each hole. Make up a VERY SMALL batch of ElastaPoxy with no sand and "top off each hole".
b. WALL are more complicated since following the directions of two times as much sand as mixed liquid leaves a consistency that drools down the wall. In other words, 4 cups of sand to 2 cups of mixed liquid will drool. My best drill would not turn to add the three times as much sand.
To solve this problem: Have some duct tape handy and if the crack is big, get a scrap piece of THIN (meaning flexible) plexiglass.
For small holes - put the duct tape at the bottom of the hole and keep pushing on the duct tape until it stops drooling. The dry time in not 40 minutes, so be patient. Your favorite relaxing music adds pleasure to this wait. BE SURE TO REMOVE DUCT TAPE BEFORE THE ELASTIAPOXY SETS - if you do not want the duct tape on the finished wall.
For really big cracks: I had a 4" wide and 4 " deep crack that was 18 " long in my wall. Duct tape would not due. I used thin plexiglass (luckily I had a scrap piece at home) to hold the drooling Elastiapoxy in place. The one mistake I did make was to not watch the set time carefully on the plexiglass and I now have a little plexiglass permanently in my wall. It is under the stairs so it is no big deal To remove the plexiglass BEFORE it sets, pull it off the wall. If you misjudge the set time, you will have plexiglass on some part or all of your wall PERMANENTLY.
5. Clean up - put products back into original containers and cover original metal cans with seran wrap before sealing. Throw out measuring cups and spatulas. The mixing tool is mostly clean, because of running the drill in the water. BUT if you want to clean it more, use warm water and soap. Throw out or recycle the cardboard box that you used as a mixing place.
Ion Bond
Even following the directions of mixing thoroughly before you start and mixing between each fill, the product was too concentrated for the last 3 inches of liquid in the 5 gallon container. This means that the product would bead up on the cement floor and not absorb into the concrete no matter how much brushing with a scrub brush I did. You have less time to brush liquid than when using the Radon Seal,
so do smaller areas and plan on taking a longer time to apply. Since I already had the experience of applying the Radon Seal Plus and since Ion Bond is applied in a similar way (with Ion Bond you do NOT wet the concrete first), I did this job by myself.
If you live in the house where this product is applied, you will need to AIR OUT YOUR HOUSE AND BASEMENT FOR THE FIRST 5 DAYS. II there is a way to keep the air in the basement confined to the basement, you will be a lot happier. My heating system uses basement air to heat the first floor of my house and it is cold in November, so I was using the forced hot air system. The smell does lessen and is not obnoxious. It definitely does not smell like the inside of any house I have ever been in - very distinctive smell. I read the MSDS sheet. Inhaling the smell is not an issue, but it is not pleasant.
I used caulk to smooth the joint between the baseboard and wall. This product peels or separates caulk from the wall - quickly.
While I am hopeful that these products will solve the various problems I had in my basement, I will need to wait 3-5 years to see how they hold up. The hydraulic cement and DryLock, purchased at Home Depot, lasted two years before the crack came back.
Louise, Baltimore, MD
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ReplyDeleteLouise, thanks for the very detailed review and product experience. Grinding sound like a tough job, how big is your concrete floor? I might opt for acid etching insteaed. If I decide on grinding, I would use steel brush wire cup on a grinder, cheaper than a diamond disk. I only manage to get a pail of radonseal, do I really need radonseal plus for old (garage) concrete floor? The MSDS listed similar ingredient for radonseal and radonseal PLUS.
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